GATSBY, THE GREAT

BY: CALEB POLING

     Last fall when they announced the new Great Gatsby film was not being released until the summer of 2013, many people were annoyed and restless that they had to wait even longer. Reminded of the great classic, people used that time to watch the old version with Robert Redford, they re-read the book, and they overanalyzed every promo, advertisement, and spoiler from the movie. People's hopes got even higher, and those who felt skeptical became even more unsure. The promo videos seemed to turn into music videos, and the soundtrack itself became controversial with whether or not it even aligned with the movie.
     Fast forward to last night as I sat in the theatre at midnight finally watching the much-anticipated film of the year. As the movie opened and began, I felt a bit nauseous at the overuse of digital effects. I'm not sure if this was to really build up the experience in 3D (which I did not see it in) or just to make it feel a lot more modern - I just know I didn't care for it. The entire first hour sped entirely too fast, and the camera allowed no intimacy between the viewer and the characters. The music sounded like a bored DJ, as it skipped from one song to another. This all made it very hard to connect and made the viewer rely too heavily on having read the book or past film of the novel.
     Towards the middle of the film, the camera worked slowed down. You could feel the worried words of Daisy rest on her quivering lip, torn between a man she loved and a man who she did so desperately love. You could feel the mystery of Gatsby, while also beginning to get to know him. I have to say it almost felt like two separate films, as the last half was incredible. I found myself, like in the Robert Redford film, liking Nick's style more than Gatsby for some reason. Something about the bow-ties.

BEIJING WELCOMES DIOR HOMME

BY: CALEB POLING

     Today marked an exciting day for the the Dior Homme runway collection brand, bringing it's first runway show outside of Paris and into Beijing, China. At the surface the choice might seem slightly odd, but when you look at the Chinese market that they're in as well as their luxury customer it makes sense; the time for men is now. 

     The demand for menswear luxury goods is actually higher than the demand for women's luxury goods in China, a statistic that is interesting and will also be influential in the menswear industry. The growing wealth currently found in China means men are not just getting new jobs, they are getting better jobs. This means they will be upgrading their wardrobes to stay in line with the type of occupations they now find themselves with. The futuristic runway setup was a direct reflection as the Chinese market continues to look forward to a more prosperous future. 

Photo courtesy of WWD.com 

PHILLIP LIM x TARGET

     Earlier today Target announced they will release a collaborative collection with designer Phillip Lim this fall, with items reaching stores September 15th. The collection will consist of women's apparel, accessories, shoes, bags, travel accessories, and men's apparel.

     Both parties state that the collection reflects the philosophy that clothing is meant to refine, not define. While the initial news is exciting to many, I'm sure what's on the mind of many industry insiders as well as consumers is will this collection be yet another to travel quickly to the sales section. While the idea of a retailer and designer collaborating sounds good in theory, I feel that recently these types of collaborations are used more of a press tactic. I will always support any mix of creative individuals given that it makes sense and creates something that normally a consumer wouldn't be able to find. The watered down versions of designer collections just for press? That I'm not sure I'm behind.

VALENTINO LEADS THE FIFTH

BY: CALEB POLING

     As Valentino prepares to open a new store in New York, they're hoping they can lead the Fifth Avenue retail space with a fresh perspective that will speak to who both the customer and the brand is. The store will be the brand's largest retail space in the world and will consist of three floors, not including the basement.
     If there's anything being said in terms of how retail is working these days, it's that stores are no longer just four walls with clothes for sale within them. They have to be environments, they have to have moods, and communication, and service, and entertainment. They have to seduce the customer away from their laptop and reawaken with the excitement of shopping in a store where they can be face-to-face with the associates who are there to help.
     That said, this is an experience for Valentino the brand to elaborate on the growth their company has had financially over the last few years. They have a chance to say something, and on Fifth Avenue everyone is listening, it's just a matter of what they will say.
     The space is set to open in 2014.

David Chipperfield sketch of the Valentino store, courtesy of WWD

SUZY MENKES AT 92Y

BY: CALEB POLING

     This evening I had the absolute privilege of attending 92Y Fashion Icon Talks with Fern Mallis in conversation with Suzy Menkes. Not many stones were left unturned as the ladies discussed Mrs. Menkes' family, past, career, and future of fashion. A conversation that left me so deeply attentive,  I neglected to tweet or make note of the brilliant things I knew would be (and was) said.
     I suppose I could create an outline of how the evening went down, filled with the stories her lengthy career has provided for her. However, what I found most exciting about all of it was three things.
     First, her passion. There is no one in this industry who could challenge the absolute love Mrs. Menkes has for the industry, and not only what she does herself but the subjects of her writing. The fashion designers who have been around for decades, and the designers who have just recently emerged on the scene coming from unexpected parts of the world. Simply put, she cares.
     Second, was her ability to define the meaning of fashion. There's nothing more frustrating than trying to explain your field of study or career than to someone who doesn't see the meaning in it. Choosing fashion as a hobby, well that's a vast part of the world. Choosing fashion as a career? That's when the line begins to blur. How many times have I met with students in the New York area who attend such highly respected school that are traditionally known for their academics as I sit there introducing myself as a student of the Fashion Institute of Technology. "Ahh, a fashion designer" they say silently in their head, nodding. 'Not in the slightest' I want to protest. Not that there is anything wrong with a chosen major in college. What I mean to shine light to is just the first of many layers of ignorance many can have on the industry. An industry that reflects society, can predict where society is going, can have political meaning, as well as a strong tie to economics. Suzy Menkes can speak so brilliantly to that subject, how much it can and does matter.
     Lastly, or rather thirdly is her knowledge. My greatest fear sometimes of being a blogger is that what I write has little meaning because of my lack of knowledge. And yes while at one point knowing how to pronounce designer's names meant knowing the industry, the truth of the matter is it's more than what's happening now it's also about the timeline and lifespan of fashion. What I wouldn't give to travel the world with the great fashion industry insiders to gain a better perspective.
     Overall the event was informational and inspirational, and what more could you ask for. Besides to attend the Oscar de la Renta event in June.

ASOS LOVIN'

BY: CALEB POLING

     With summer approaching us and the sun finally deciding to be consistent - the only thing to confirm that the season is changing is the gift package from ASOS I received today. With clothes like this, who needs the cold weather? What do you think is in the bag? Thanks again ASOS!

MICHAEL BASTIAN x UNIQLO

BY: CALEB POLING

     Whether it was his time spent as the men's fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman, his collaborative efforts with GANT, or his own namesake label - it is clear that all of the accomplishments listed served as outlets for Michael Bastian to help make American menswear stronger than ever. When I interviewed him last year he told me his advice to young men was to "buy less, but buy better," and while that may seem contradictory with a collaboration with a brand such as UNIQLO, I think his motto still stands strong.
     UNIQLO has made many strides in making the best product that they can make with the price range that their customers seem to be searching for. After watching the video and seeing that Mr. Bastian really is just trying to make the average guy look better, I would definitely go out and buy one of his polos. To read more, check out the website's page HERE.